7 Steps to Dressing for Paddling

The number one cause of kayak related death is not drowning. It's exposure or hypothermia from getting wet, then chilled and losing motor skills/ Then you can drown but exposure is what set the stage. If this disturbing fact has caught your attention read on Cold water holds on into June in our northern waters and a dunking on an 80-degree day in early summer can shock the system when it hits the frigid water. So the number one tip is to dress for the water temp first and the air temp second.

As with skiing and cycling, proper paddling clothing will always put the odds of a safe and fun outing firmly in your favor. But paddling clothing is a very different animal and confusing to many. And to some, well, downright dorky looking. What makes it different from other stuff already in your closet and why do you need it? And why it's so expensive?

When you are kayaking you have dual needs of your clothing. The first is to protect you from water that splashes in off the paddle and over the deck at times. This water could be pleasantly warm in July or brutally cold in April. It is amazing how much water can enter a cockpit off your paddle in an hour's time. Your lap and lower torso can get pretty soaked. Of course a good sprayskirt prevents most of this. But it's a pretty good bet you'll be dragging your sleeves in the water, especially doing edged sweep turns. So you need an outer layer that will shed water. The second need you have as you venture out in less protected waters is a jacket that can allow you to capsize without getting totally soaked.

1. Spray jackets are simple nylon windbreaker type jackets that have waterproof coatings and sealed seams to prevent water from soaking you. They start at about $69 in coated nylon and go up to $129 in waterproof/breathable fabrics. The idea of the spray jacket is to fend off spray and light rain and there are two features it must have. Some type of cuff sealing method to prevent water from just running up your sleeve with each stroke. These cuffs are usually made of lightweight neoprene with a velcro tab to adjust for wrist size. Or they can be the tighter fitting latex types with no velcro. Either way, make sure they form a tight seal around your wrist or they won't work. The other feature is the neck should come up above your PFD and zip down at least nine inches. I like the ones with a lightweight neoprene collar that snugs up with a velcro tab to keep drizzle out. You wear these under you PFD if you want to use your PFD pockets. If you want to wear it over your PFD, you can get it on and off to adjust your temp, but beware that taking it off while on the water takes practice.

2. Drytops are the more serious cousin to the spray jacket and are for immersion protection while at the same time providing stellar spray and rain protection. If engineered properly, you can take a quick dunking with only a small trace of cold water creeping in. These will run from $125 in coated nylon to over $300 in Gore Tex. The fabric will generally be beefed up for durability as well as to hold the sewing of extra features. The cuffs will most likely be the latex style or may be a beefy weight of neoprene. For immersion, the gasket style latex neck has proven to be the only good route to sealing out water at the neck. The neoprene collars, while far more comfortable, will let in far more water too. The better jackets will have a inner "tunnel" that works with your spray skirt to keep water from coming up underneath in the event of capsize. If you have a tunnel on your jacket don't plan on wearing it over your PFD. Many paddling jackets have pockets but unless they are on the upper shoulder, you can't get at what's in them very well unless you open up your PFD, which may not be a good idea. Simple is better.

a. Either type of jacket will have sleeves that are cut for the seated paddling position and may feel and look weird to you when you try them on standing up. They will be about belly button in length when seated so you won't sit on them. Many jackets will have a little bungie at the waist to act as a further seal but this feature has more value for trapping heat when you need it than acting as a seal. The biggest complaint with spray jackets and drytops is that you can really sweat in them since under arm zippers leak or fail altogether if you leave them open at the wrong moment. So I have found the extra cost of the waterproof breathable to pay off here more than it does in my skiwear. The other complaint is the feeling of the seals around the neck and wrist can get to you after a while so I recommend that you do not buy mail order but instead try these on at your outfitter and make sure you can live with the fit.

b. Increasing in popularity is the pullover anorak paddling jacket with a hood. These jackets allow the most comfort and can be used in other activities. You'll still want a good cuff seal but the neck will have a neoprene seal that opens up for ventilation and allow adjustment of the hood. Still not the best choice for capsizing, I've found the anorak ideal for cold windy days and rain and wear mine a lot. Expect to pay from $135 to $295. If you are not venturing far from shore and do rivers, you can elect to go more for venting and comfort.

3. What about the legs and lower torso region? For near shore paddling you can wear fleece pants or rain pants. But offshore you'll want either a wetsuit pant or a farmer john out of neoprene. This closed cell foam type of material will trap your body heat along with a very thin layer of water next to your skin. If at least 3 mil thick, it will keep you warm enough to get back in your boat without cold shock shutting your motor skills down. If you plan to practice safety and rescue skills regularly, having a farmer john is a must. It's a one-piece suit with no sleeves and a front zipper. These do the best job of keeping you warm with moderate comfort. For cool water that is over 5o degrees, the "fuzzy rubber" pants, shirts and farmer johns get my vote. They have a very thin layer of polyester fleece under the stretchy, thin neoprene and are lighter and more breathable than regular neoprene. The farmer johns in fuzzy rubber will run about $160.

4. Underneath your paddling jacket and farmer john you'll want to wear lightweight synthetics with NO COTTON content. Here is where you may use existing underwear you own but beware that the armpit area should not have a seam running through it or you may get a real painful chafe. Test it out first and see if the shoulder and armpit moves freely enough. There are many new stretch fabrics for base layers in paddling and all of it looks kinda Star Trekkie but really work. Try base layers made from HydroSkin, Innova Second Skin and Metalite. Although $70 to $80, they will last you for many years of use.

5. Cold, numb hands are what trouble most cold water paddlers. Fortunately there are a great array of paddling gloves out now made exclusively for paddling. Look for pre-bent (articulated) fingers that won't fight you with every paddle stroke. Pay close attention to fit since if they are too tight you will be miserable. Pay special attention to seams between the thumb and forefinger where your paddle rests and make sure there is no chafing and binding at this spot. Neoprene is still the best option here. I've paddled some pretty arctic waters in fleece gloves tucked inside pogies, which are "muffs" that fit over the paddle, and you slip your hand into them. They can be a real pain if you are getting in and out every couple of minutes but provide superb warmth and allow you to wear comfortable, lighter weight gloves underneath.

6. As for your feet you'll want at least 2mm thick neoprene booties with a walking sole on them. 3 mm is better. Many paddlers wear neoprene socks under their summer sandals and that is one solution if you have the room. But I much prefer a paddling shoe or bootie with heel protection that goes up the sides a little for true comfort and protection. Much to my surprise, even the most expensive booties will let water in at some point so opt for neoprene here and forego the temptation to get Gore-Tex socks. They will not keep you warm enough.

7. We all know that we lose so much heat from the head and neck so in cold air temps you'll want to wear fleece hats and maybe pull the hood over that if you have an anorak. Remember that hats with big brims and bills can become sails in windy conditions so they must be tethered to your PFD or it's bye bye! I carry a think fleece hat even on warm days if the water is cold since it will help warm me faster if I do get wet.

Last advice; test drive your clothing on a short paddle before going out for two plus hours. I've seen some mean blisters from seams that gnawed on flesh and that's why paddling clothing looks so different.